Does Slugging Increase Acne? Unpacking the Truth About This Skincare Trend

The skincare world is constantly evolving, with new trends and techniques emerging regularly. One such trend that has gained significant popularity is slugging, a method that involves applying a thick layer of an occlusive emollient, like petroleum jelly, to the face as the last step in your nighttime skincare routine. While slugging is praised for its ability to lock in moisture and create a protective barrier, questions arise about its potential to cause acne breakouts. So, does slugging actually increase acne? The short answer is: it can, but it’s not a universal outcome, and it largely depends on your skin type and how you implement the method. Let’s delve deeper into this complex topic.

The Science Behind Slugging and Acne

Slugging works by creating a physical barrier on the skin’s surface. This barrier prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL), meaning it keeps moisture from escaping. The process can be incredibly beneficial for individuals with dry, dehydrated, or sensitive skin, as it helps to replenish and maintain hydration levels, leading to a plumper, smoother complexion.

However, the same occlusive effect that locks in moisture can also trap other substances, including sebum, dead skin cells, bacteria, and any residual makeup or product. If you have acne-prone or oily skin, this trapped environment can potentially exacerbate existing breakouts or lead to new ones. This is particularly true if you don’t properly cleanse your skin beforehand or if you choose the wrong products for slugging.

What Causes Breakouts After Slugging?

While petroleum jelly itself is considered non-comedogenic (meaning it doesn’t typically clog pores), the occlusive nature of slugging can create a breeding ground for acne-causing factors if not managed carefully. Here’s a breakdown:

• Trapped Sebum and Dead Skin Cells: Your skin naturally produces oil (sebum) and sheds dead skin cells. When you apply a thick occlusive layer, these byproducts can become trapped, leading to clogged pores and comedones (blackheads and whiteheads).
• Bacteria Proliferation: Clogged pores create an ideal environment for bacteria, especially P. acnes, to flourish. Increased bacterial activity can trigger inflammation and the formation of pustules and papules (the classic red, pus-filled pimples).
• Product Sensitivity: While petroleum jelly is generally safe, using other occlusive agents, like certain oils (e.g., coconut oil), can be comedogenic for some individuals, leading to breakouts. Furthermore, slugging can intensify the effects of underlying products applied beforehand, causing irritation or reactions.
• Improper Cleansing: Failing to thoroughly cleanse the skin before slugging leaves any residual dirt, makeup, and oil trapped beneath the occlusive layer, increasing the risk of breakouts.

Who Should Avoid Slugging?

While slugging can be beneficial for many, it’s not for everyone. If you fall into any of the following categories, it’s best to proceed with caution or avoid slugging altogether:

• Acne-Prone Skin: If you are prone to frequent breakouts, especially those involving inflammatory lesions, slugging may not be ideal. The occlusive nature can aggravate your condition by trapping oil and bacteria.
• Oily Skin: Individuals with oily skin already produce excess sebum. Adding another occlusive layer might exacerbate the oiliness and increase the likelihood of clogged pores.
• Active Acne: It is generally advisable to avoid slugging over active acne. The process could trap bacteria and dead skin cells, potentially making existing breakouts worse and prolonging the healing process.
• Rosacea: Those with papulopustular rosacea (a subtype that presents similar to acne) should avoid slugging, as it can further irritate the skin.
• Those Using Potent Actives: Slugging can intensify the effects of ingredients like retinoids, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or lactic acid, leading to increased skin sensitivity and irritation, especially if not used cautiously.

How to Slugging Without Breaking Out

If you are not prone to acne but still want to try slugging, or if you have dry, non-acneic skin and want to minimize the risk of breakouts, here are some tips to follow:

• Cleanse Thoroughly: Start with a gentle, hydrating cleanser to remove all traces of makeup, dirt, and oil. Ensure your skin is completely clean before applying anything else.
• Apply Thin Layers: Don’t overload your face with an excessive amount of product. A thin layer of your chosen occlusive is sufficient for creating the protective barrier.
• Choose Non-Comedogenic Products: If you prefer to slug with something other than petrolatum, make sure it’s non-comedogenic. Look for products labeled as such and test them on a small area of skin before applying them to the entire face. Aquaphor is often recommended as a suitable alternative to Vaseline.
• Avoid Actives Underneath: Refrain from applying strong actives right before slugging. It’s best to slug on nights when you’re not using potent ingredients like retinoids or exfoliants.
• Listen to Your Skin: If you notice any signs of irritation or breakouts, stop slugging and adjust your routine. Your skin may be telling you that it doesn’t respond well to the method.
• Limit the Frequency: If your skin tolerates slugging, consider reducing how often you do it. Perhaps one to two times a week is sufficient to reap the benefits without risking breakouts.
• Use a Clean Pillowcase: To maintain skin hygiene, use clean pillowcases regularly, especially when slugging. Consider switching to a dedicated pillowcase just for slugging nights.

The Verdict: Does Slugging Cause Acne?

While slugging does not directly cause acne, it can indirectly contribute to breakouts in susceptible individuals. The occlusive nature of slugging can trap substances that exacerbate acne, making it critical to understand your skin type and implement the technique properly. If you have acne-prone or oily skin, proceed with caution and perhaps try alternative methods of hydration. For those with dry, non-acneic skin, slugging can be a great way to lock in moisture and support a healthy skin barrier, but it is essential to practice good skincare habits when slugging.

Ultimately, understanding your skin and what it needs is paramount. If you are unsure, consult a dermatologist who can provide personalized advice based on your skin’s unique needs.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. What exactly is slugging?

Slugging is a skincare practice involving the application of a thick layer of an occlusive emollient (like petroleum jelly) as the final step in a nighttime skincare routine. This creates a protective barrier on the skin, locking in moisture and preventing water loss.

2. Is Vaseline or Aquaphor better for slugging?

Both Vaseline and Aquaphor are popular choices for slugging. Both are petroleum-based and effective at creating a moisture barrier, but Aquaphor contains additional ingredients like lanolin and glycerin, which can be more beneficial for some individuals with extremely dry skin.

3. Can slugging help with dry skin?

Yes, slugging is excellent for managing dry skin. The occlusive layer helps prevent transepidermal water loss, keeping the skin hydrated and supple.

4. Is slugging bad for hormonal acne?

Yes, slugging is generally not recommended for hormonal acne. Hormonal acne is often linked to fluctuations in hormones that increase sebum production, and slugging may further contribute to clogged pores and exacerbate breakouts.

5. Can I slug over active acne?

It’s not recommended to slug over active acne. The occlusive barrier could trap bacteria and dead skin cells, making existing breakouts worse.

6. Can slugging cause cystic acne?

While slugging doesn’t directly cause cystic acne, it can exacerbate the condition if you have underlying tendencies. It’s best to consult a dermatologist if you have cystic acne.

7. Can I slug if I have sensitive skin?

If you have sensitive skin and are not prone to acne, slugging can potentially benefit you by reinforcing the skin barrier and preventing moisture loss. However, patch test first and monitor your skin’s reaction carefully.

8. Does slugging clog pores?

Petroleum jelly, the most common ingredient used in slugging, is considered non-comedogenic, meaning it’s not likely to clog pores on its own. However, if you do not cleanse properly before applying it, or if you have oily skin, it can contribute to clogged pores.

9. Can slugging cause purging?

Slugging itself is not typically comedogenic but, if you have underlying clogged pores, trapped dirt, makeup or dead skin cells, it could potentially create breakouts. Make sure your skin is super clean before applying an occlusive layer.

10. How often should I slug?

If you are going to slug and are not acne-prone, consider starting with once or twice a week to see how your skin responds. You can adjust the frequency based on your skin’s needs.

11. Should I wash my face in the morning after slugging?

Yes, while some dermatologists suggest it is not essential to wash the occlusive layer off, it is good practice to wash your face with a gentle cleanser in the morning after slugging to remove residue and prepare your skin for your daytime routine.

12. Can slugging cause milia?

Slugging can potentially contribute to the development of milia, especially around the eye area, due to the occlusive nature of the products.

13. Is slugging bad in the summer?

Slugging can be less suitable during hot and humid seasons, as it could potentially prevent the skin from sweating properly. This could lead to heat rash or other skin irritation.

14. Can slugging make my skin more sensitive?

Slugging can indirectly cause sensitivity if used in conjunction with the wrong products or actives. This is because it enhances the intensity of the products applied underneath. Always practice caution.

15. What are the best ingredients to pair with slugging?

The best ingredients to pair with slugging are hydrating and moisturizing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and glycerin. Avoid using potent active ingredients right before slugging.