Why Are My Eggs Pipping But Not Hatching?

An egg pipping is a hopeful sign – it means a chick is actively working to hatch! However, it can be incredibly frustrating and disheartening when an egg pips (meaning the chick has broken through the inner membrane and shell), but the chick never fully emerges. There are several reasons why this happens, and understanding these factors is crucial to improving your hatch rates in the future. The most common culprits are incorrect incubation temperatures, improper humidity levels, inadequate ventilation, chick malpositioning, or underlying chick health issues.

Understanding the Hatching Process

Before delving into the reasons for hatch failure after pipping, it’s important to understand the complex process a chick undergoes within the egg. The final stages of incubation are critical:

• Internal Pipping: The chick internally pips, breaking through the inner membrane into the air cell. This gives it its first breath of air and signals the beginning of the end.
• External Pipping: The chick then pips externally, using its egg tooth (a small, temporary projection on its beak) to peck a hole through the shell.
• Zipping: The chick then gradually rotates and pecks around the egg, creating a larger opening as it “zips” around.
• Hatching: Finally, the chick pushes its way out of the shell, a process that can take several hours.

Any disruption to this process can lead to a chick being unable to hatch successfully.

Common Reasons for Pipping but Not Hatching

Let’s explore the most common reasons why a chick might pip but fail to hatch:

Temperature Problems

Incubation temperature is arguably the most crucial factor. Even slight fluctuations can have devastating effects, particularly in the later stages of incubation.

• Too Low: If the temperature is consistently too low, the chick’s development can be slowed, weakening it and making it less able to hatch. It may simply lack the energy needed to complete the process.
• Too High: Overheating can cause the chick to develop abnormally or become dehydrated, also weakening it. High temperatures can also accelerate development, leading to a premature and potentially weak hatch.
• Fluctuations: Even if the average temperature is correct, significant fluctuations can stress the chick and hinder its development. Ensure your incubator maintains a stable temperature, ideally 99.5°F (37.5°C) for forced-air incubators and 102°F (38.9°C) for still-air incubators.

Humidity Issues

Humidity plays a critical role in the hatchability of eggs.

• Too Low: Low humidity can cause the membranes inside the egg to dry out and become tough, making it difficult for the chick to break through and move around. The chick can essentially become “shrink-wrapped” inside the egg. This is the most common cause of pipped eggs not hatching.
• Too High: While less common as a reason for pipping failure, excessively high humidity can prevent the chick from properly absorbing the yolk sac, which provides essential nutrients for the first few days of life. It can also lead to a “sticky” hatch, where the chick is covered in a slimy substance and struggles to move.
• Lockdown Humidity: During the last three days of incubation (lockdown), humidity should be increased significantly, typically to around 65-70% (or even higher depending on your climate and incubator). This is crucial to prevent the membranes from drying out.

Ventilation Problems

Adequate ventilation is often overlooked but is essential for the developing chick.

• Insufficient Oxygen: Chicks need oxygen to develop properly. Lack of ventilation can lead to carbon dioxide build-up within the egg, weakening the chick and making it difficult to hatch.
• Smothering: Poor ventilation can also lead to moisture build-up inside the incubator, creating a suffocating environment for the chick.

Malpositioning

Sometimes, the chick is simply in the wrong position to hatch effectively.

• Incorrect Orientation: The ideal position for hatching is with the head tucked under the right wing and the beak pointing towards the air cell. If the chick is in a different position (e.g., feet towards the air cell), it may be unable to pip or zip correctly.
• Genetic Predisposition: Some breeds may be more prone to malpositioning than others.
• Incubation Issues: Improper turning during incubation can also contribute to malpositioning.

Chick Health and Genetics

Underlying health issues can also prevent a chick from hatching.

• Weakness: A chick may be inherently weak due to genetic factors, nutritional deficiencies in the hen, or exposure to pathogens.
• Developmental Abnormalities: Developmental problems can arise during incubation, hindering the chick’s ability to hatch.
• Inbreeding: Inbreeding can lead to weaker chicks with a higher risk of developmental issues.

Interference and Assisting

It’s generally best not to interfere with the hatching process. However, there are rare circumstances where assistance might be warranted, but this should only be done as a last resort and with extreme caution.

• When to Consider Assisting: If a chick has pipped but made no further progress after 24 hours, and the membranes appear to be drying out, careful assistance may be considered.
• How to Assist (Cautiously): Moisten the membrane with warm water and gently peel away small pieces of the shell, being extremely careful not to damage the chick or its blood vessels. Only assist if the chick appears to be struggling and the membranes are clearly dried out. Stop assisting if you see any fresh blood.
• Risks of Assisting: Assisting a chick can be risky and can often do more harm than good. Premature assistance can lead to injury, infection, or even death.

Egg Storage and Handling

• Storage Conditions: Improper egg storage before incubation (e.g., extreme temperatures, humidity) can negatively impact hatchability.
• Handling Damage: Rough handling can cause hairline cracks in the shell that are not immediately visible but can lead to dehydration or bacterial contamination during incubation.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Here are some frequently asked questions to provide further insight into this common incubation problem:

1. How long should it take for a chick to hatch after pipping?

Generally, a chick should hatch within 12-24 hours after pipping. If it takes longer than 24 hours and the chick is still struggling, it might indicate a problem.

2. What should I do if I see blood when assisting a chick?

Stop assisting immediately. The chick is likely still absorbing the yolk sac and removing the shell prematurely can cause fatal bleeding.

3. How can I improve ventilation in my incubator?

Most incubators have adjustable vents. Ensure they are open enough to allow for airflow without losing too much humidity. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.

4. What is “lockdown” and why is it important?

Lockdown refers to the last three days of incubation, where the eggs are no longer turned, and humidity is increased. This crucial stage allows the chick to orient itself for hatching and prevents the membranes from drying out.

5. My incubator’s temperature fluctuates. How can I stabilize it?

Ensure your incubator is placed in a room with a stable temperature and away from drafts. You can also use a more reliable thermometer to monitor the temperature and adjust the incubator settings accordingly. Some incubators require manual adjustment while others maintain temperature automatically.

6. How do I properly store eggs before incubation?

Store eggs at a cool temperature (55-65°F or 13-18°C) and moderate humidity (around 75%). Turn the eggs at least once a day to prevent the yolk from sticking to the side.

7. What kind of thermometer is best for monitoring incubator temperature?

A digital thermometer with a probe is generally the most accurate and reliable. Avoid using analog thermometers, which can be less precise.

8. How often should I check the humidity level in my incubator?

Check the humidity level at least once a day, preferably twice, especially during lockdown.

9. Can I candle the eggs after they pip?

It’s generally not recommended to candle eggs after they pip, as it can disturb the chick and potentially damage the membranes.

10. I’ve tried everything, but my hatch rates are still low. What else could be the problem?

Consider the health and nutrition of your breeding flock. Nutritional deficiencies or underlying health problems in the hens can affect egg quality and hatchability. Also, consider the age of the eggs; older eggs have lower hatch rates.

11. What are the signs of a healthy developing chick inside the egg?

During candling, you should see a network of blood vessels developing around the yolk. As the chick grows, it will fill more of the egg, and you may even see movement.

12. Is it normal for some chicks to hatch earlier or later than others?

Yes, it’s normal for there to be some variation in hatching times. However, if a chick is significantly delayed (more than 24 hours after the first chick hatches), it may indicate a problem.

13. Can certain breeds of chickens be harder to hatch than others?

Yes, some breeds can be more challenging to hatch due to genetic factors or specific breed characteristics. Research your breed’s specific needs.

14. What can I do to prevent shrink-wrapping?

Maintaining proper humidity levels, especially during lockdown, is the best way to prevent shrink-wrapping. You can also lightly mist the eggs with warm water if the humidity is consistently low.

15. After a failed hatch, can I reuse the unhatched eggs for anything?

While you cannot hatch them, you can boil the eggs and feed them back to your chickens as a source of protein and calcium. Discard any eggs that have a foul odor.

By understanding the potential causes of pipping failure and addressing any issues with your incubation setup, you can significantly improve your hatch rates and enjoy the rewarding experience of watching healthy chicks emerge from their shells.