Should I Remove Queen Cells? A Beekeeper’s Guide
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The question of whether to remove queen cells is one that plagues both novice and experienced beekeepers alike. The answer, as with many things in beekeeping, isn’t a simple “yes” or “no.” It depends entirely on the context, your goals, and your beekeeping philosophy. Generally, removing queen cells isn’t always the best approach, and a more nuanced understanding of why bees build these cells is crucial. Destroying queen cells as a swarm prevention technique is unreliable. This article will guide you through the different scenarios and provide you with the knowledge to make informed decisions about queen cell management in your hive.
Understanding Queen Cells
Before diving into the specifics, let’s clarify what queen cells are and why bees create them. Queen cells are special, larger cells specifically designed for raising queen bees. They differ significantly from the typical hexagonal cells used for worker bees and drones. Finding them in your hive is a sign that the colony is either preparing to swarm, replace an aging or failing queen (supersedure), or responding to the sudden loss of their queen (emergency queen rearing).
Types of Queen Cells
- Swarm Cells: These are typically found along the bottom edges or sides of the frames. They indicate the colony is overcrowded and preparing to divide, with the old queen leaving with a swarm of workers.
- Supersedure Cells: Often found in the middle of the comb, these cells are a sign that the colony is replacing a queen who is no longer performing optimally. Bees can make up to ten or more of these to ensure a healthy queen is born.
- Emergency Cells: These are created when the queen is suddenly lost. Workers quickly convert existing worker larva cells into queen cells. This is a survival response, but the quality of queens raised this way is not always optimal. It will usually appear on the face of a comb.
When to Leave Queen Cells Alone
In many cases, interfering with queen cells can do more harm than good. Here’s when it’s best to let the bees manage the situation:
- Supersedure: If you find a few well-formed queen cells in the middle of the comb and the current queen is still present and laying, the bees are likely superseding her. Let them do their thing. Removing these cells will only frustrate the bees and potentially lead to other problems.
- Emergency Queen Rearing: If your colony has suddenly become queenless (you can confirm this by the absence of eggs and young larvae), leaving the emergency cells is crucial. They represent the colony’s only hope of raising a new queen and surviving.
When to Consider Removing Queen Cells
There are specific situations where removing queen cells might be considered:
- Swarm Prevention (with caution): While simply destroying queen cells is not a reliable swarm prevention strategy, it can be part of a more comprehensive swarm management plan. If you’re using techniques like splits or the Demaree method, you might remove queen cells in one portion of the colony to prevent secondary swarms. Separating the queen from capped brood is a very effective swarm control strategy. Destroying queen cells to prevent swarming never has been and never will be a successful method of swarm control.
- Queen Introduction: When introducing a new queen, it’s generally recommended to remove any existing queen cells to ensure the colony accepts her. Queenless hives are more willing to accept a replacement queen.
- Post-Swarm Management: After a swarm has occurred, you might choose to reduce the number of queen cells in the remaining colony to prevent subsequent “cast swarms” led by virgin queens. As a rule of thumb, leave just two or three good-looking queen cells (of varying ages).
The Importance of Observation
Regardless of whether you decide to remove or leave queen cells, careful observation is paramount. Monitor the colony’s behavior, look for signs of queenlessness, and track the development of the queen cells. Understanding what’s happening inside the hive will empower you to make the best decisions for your bees. Inspect your hives at least every five days.
Alternative Swarm Management Strategies
Instead of relying solely on queen cell removal, consider implementing proactive swarm management techniques, such as:
- Regular Hive Inspections: Catching swarm preparations early is crucial.
- Providing Adequate Space: Adding supers or frames of drawn comb can alleviate overcrowding.
- Splitting Colonies: Creating new colonies from existing ones reduces the pressure to swarm.
- The Demaree Method: This involves moving frames of open brood up to relieve crowding around the queen.
The Role of Genetics
It’s also worth noting that some bee strains are more prone to swarming than others. Selecting for less swarmy bees can significantly reduce the need for intervention.
FAQs About Queen Cells
1. Should I remove queen cups?
No, it’s generally not necessary to remove queen cups. These small, cup-shaped structures are often present in the hive even when the bees aren’t actively preparing to raise a queen. They are like practice runs or potential starting points and don’t necessarily indicate a problem.
2. Why do my bees keep making queen cells?
Bees make queen cells for three main reasons: swarming, supersedure, or emergency queen rearing. Repeated queen cell production often indicates a persistent issue, such as overcrowding, a failing queen, or a highly swarmy bee strain.
3. How long after a queen cell is capped will it hatch?
A queen cell is usually capped around nine days after the egg is laid. The queen will hatch approximately seven days after capping, making the total development time around 16 days from egg to queen.
4. Will bees destroy a queen cell?
Yes, bees will sometimes destroy queen cells, particularly if there are multiple cells present. This can be done by the existing queen or by the worker bees, often in a process of natural selection to ensure the strongest queen survives.
5. Do bees swarm when the queen cell is capped?
Bees typically swarm shortly after the first queen cell is capped. This is a crucial time to implement swarm control measures if you haven’t already.
6. How do I stop swarming without splitting?
While splitting is one of the most effective swarm control methods, other options include providing more space, improving ventilation, using the Demaree method, or requeening with a less swarmy strain.
7. How often should I check for queen cells?
Ideally, you should inspect your hives for queen cells every five to seven days during swarm season. This allows you to catch swarm preparations early and take appropriate action.
8. What does an uncapped queen cell look like?
An uncapped queen cell, also known as a queen cup, resembles a small, bowl-shaped structure. It might or might not contain an egg or larva.
9. Why do you have to remove the queen bee?
Beekeepers remove queens for various reasons, including requeening with a different strain, replacing an old or failing queen, or as part of certain swarm management techniques.
10. What happens if the queen is removed from the hive?
If the queen is removed, the colony will become queenless. This will lead to behavioral changes in the worker bees, cessation of brood production, and eventually, the colony’s demise if a new queen is not raised or introduced.
11. Will a queenless hive accept a new queen?
Yes, a queenless hive is generally more likely to accept a new queen, especially if it has been queenless for a few hours.
12. How many queen cells do you leave after a swarm?
After a swarm, it’s generally recommended to leave two or three healthy-looking queen cells in the hive to prevent cast swarms led by virgin queens.
13. What happens if there are multiple queen bees in a hive?
If multiple queens emerge in a hive, they will typically fight to the death until only one remains, or the hive will swarm with one or more of the queens.
14. How long does it take a queenless hive to make a queen cell?
Bees can start building emergency queen cells within 24 hours of becoming queenless. The entire process of raising a new queen takes about 16 days.
15. What is the difference between a queen cell and a swarm cell?
Generally, swarm cells are found at the bottom or edges of the frame, while supersedure cells are located in the middle of the comb. However, this isn’t always a foolproof distinction, so it’s essential to consider the overall context of the hive. Remember to visit GamesLearningSociety.org to learn more.
Conclusion
Deciding whether to remove queen cells requires a thoughtful approach based on understanding your bees’ behavior and your beekeeping goals. By carefully observing your colonies and implementing proactive swarm management strategies, you can make informed decisions that promote the health and well-being of your bees. This will make you a more successful beekeeper in the long run.